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Veiled Chameleon keeping in Canada

  • Amanda
  • Feb 21
  • 6 min read

Updated: Mar 10

Chamaeleo calyptratus calyptratus

A 3 month old Veiled Chameleon
A 3 month old Veiled Chameleon

Chameleons are popular pets but require very specific needs to be healthy and long lived. From hatchling to subadult size is only approximately 4 months! Nobody told me when I started so my little baby Chameleon quickly out grew his “starter” tank within 3 months. Your investment in appropriate length and wattage UVB, heating, and lighting will save you from buying inadequate equipment twice. 


  1. A comprehensive guide for successful Veiled Chameleon keeping in Canada

    1. Enclosure Options

      1. Size

      2. Style

      3. Decorations

      4. Substrate

    2. Lighting

      1. Linear UVB

      2. Daylight

      3. Basking Lamp

    3. Temperature

      1. Basking Area

      2. Warm Area

    4. Humidity

      1. Why you need the equipment

      2. $5 Spray Bottle vs $150+ Programmable Misting System

      3. Fogger

      4. Ventilation

    5. Feeding

      1. Supplements




Enclosure Options


Size

Minimum for a Veiled 36" x 18" x 36". A female Veiled Chameleon can go into a 22" x 22" x 46" terrarium, but a male should not due to their larger size. Do better than the minimum if you can!


Style

Mesh enclosures (Zoo Med ReptiBreeze) are not a suitable habitat for chameleons in dry climates. MANY care guides originated from areas where keepers can house the animals outside in the ideal weather all year round. This is not the case for Canada. Mesh enclosures do not hold any humidity in them (even with a mister) and they wear down or break the animal's nails which will not grow back if torn out.



Decorations

Since Chameleons cannot stick to glass, a good way to create useable space is with wood trellis! This adds lots of hand sized surface area and vines or horizontal branches can be rested in it as a support system. Choose various thickness of thin branches, vines, fake plants so the Chameleon can grip properly. Ensure lots of horizontal sticks since that is primarily their path of travel.


Substrate

Bioactive is a great way to keep Chameleons since live plants aid in collecting water to drink from. Large species of isopods such as Porcellio laevis 'Dairy cow' Isopods, are excellent cleaners and can provide an additional food source. If using live plants, we recommend Zoo Med ReptiSoil or Jurassic ABG Terrarium Mix.


Lighting

The sun is comprised of 3 essential features: heat, radiation (UVB/UVA), and visible light. It is our responsibility as keepers to replicate as best as possible their natural environment.


Linear UVB

High quality and scientifically tested linear UVB is mandatory for Chameleon health. UVB should cover up to half of the enclosure and placed as close to the heat lamp as possible. The % of the lamp output is based off the distance to the animal's back. Guidelines from manufactures are as follows:



Use Solarmeter 6.5 for exact measurements.


Daylight

Turn on from morning such as 7am to 7pm or your household's 12 hours schedule. You have many options, we like a full spectrum LED bar which offers the most amount of bright natural light. Ensure you create some shade with fake/live plants. Think of it like an umbrella on a hot sunny day.


Basking Lamp

Turn on 30 min to 60 min after the daylight and UVB are on to simulate a hot mid day. Turning off before night time.

Wattage depends on your enclosure size and distance to the lamp. You can use a dimmable thermostat to set the basking temperature or pick out the correct lamp. This may require buying a couple bulbs and/or swapping between summer and winter seasons.

(TIP: Dome watts must be the same as the lamp or higher)


PVC Enclosure: holds heat better, uses a lower watt lamp, 50w is usually perfect. A 50w Halogen gets hotter than a 50w incandensent bulb!


Temperature

Measure with a digital temperature gauge with probe for best accuracy. Stick on analog units are inaccurate, only measure air temp at their location (often on the side of the tank) and give no indication of failure. The probe should be directly under the hottest spot that the chameleon can get to. Often this is hung under the lamp at back level.

(TIP: If the chameleon is using the cord as a highway to trouble, secure it to a branch)


Basking 83-87°f

Warm Area 72-78°f



Humidity

Why you need the equipment

Chameleons will not drink water from a bowl so we must be aware that if we are not misting daily, then they are not getting any water. In the wild, overnight cold humid air falls back into the canopy as fog and collects on leaves, turning into droplets. As the sun rises, the Chameleons wake and get a chance to drink before the sun heats up and dries everything out. Misting in the morning and late in the evening increases the humidity in the enclosure while offering droplets of water to drink twice a day.

During the day aim for 40% to 50% and increase to 80% to 100% at night. This can be achieved by misting, a fogger and/or dripper.


$5 Spray Bottle vs $150+ Programmable Misting System

 A classic consideration. Time vs money. Either is ok! Will you or someone be home to hand spray twice a day? The upfront costs of using a digitally programmable misting system takes away the worry of managing these numbers and hydrating (watering) your Chameleon. We have many different options and will be creating a guide of soon.

Ensure to mist for drinking water either in mid day or 4 to 5pm, usually when they are thirsty.


Fogger

Recommended piece of equipment to fully simulate nature. Set on to 2am to 6am, simulating a drop in air pressure


Ventilation

USB powered fans can be used on timers to push/pull air from the terrarium twice a day. Mount them either directly on the lid at opposing sides or at the back ventilation on PVC enclosures. It is important that branches and surfaces are allowed to dry throughout the day. Stagnant air can cause health issues as they would naturally see a temperature and humidity swing.



Feeding

Growing or Gravid: Everyday, free fed (as much as they want)

Adult: Every other day, 4-6 insects


Supplements


Calcium without D3 is very important since the feeders offered in captivity are not as varied with what the animal would eat in the wild. When an animal has UVB, they can generate their own vitamin D3 through UVB exposure. Dust on live insects with every feeding.



Multivitamins

Dust on live insects, every two weeks. Skip your regular calcium on this day.



Contact us with any questions or help!

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